Eight hours, one highway, and a complete change of landscape — from the Shivalik foothills around Jammu, over the Pir Panjal range through Patnitop and the Jawahar Tunnel, to the orchards and saffron fields on the approach to Srinagar.
Few road trips in India compress as much landscape change into a single day as the drive from Jammu to Srinagar. In roughly 250 kilometres and somewhere between six and eight hours, NH44 takes you from the warm, dusty Shivalik foothills around Jammu, up and over the Pir Panjal range, and down into the cool, green expanse of the Kashmir Valley — a transition that's hard to fully register until you're living through it, mountain pass by mountain pass.
The first stretch out of Jammu climbs steadily through the Shivalik Hills, passing through Udhampur before reaching Patnitop, roughly 100km in. Patnitop is a popular overnight stop for a reason — a hill station with meadows, pine forests, and views back over the hills already covered, it's a natural place to break the journey, especially if you're tackling the route over two days rather than pushing through in one.
From Patnitop, the road used to wind through a genuinely difficult, landslide-prone stretch of mountains — that section is now largely bypassed by the Chenani-Nashri Tunnel, a 9.28km tunnel that cuts straight through the mountain and has measurably shortened both the distance and the risk on this part of the route, particularly during the monsoon.
Beyond the tunnel, the highway descends toward Ramban, on the Chenab River, before climbing again toward Banihal — the last town on the Jammu side before the Pir Panjal range itself. It's at Banihal that the road meets the Jawahar Tunnel, a 2.85km tunnel built between 1954 and 1956 and named after India's first prime minister, Jawaharlal Nehru. For decades, this tunnel was the road entrance to the Kashmir Valley — the point where, for travellers arriving overland, Kashmir genuinely began.
Emerging from the Jawahar Tunnel on the far side, near Qazigund, the change in landscape is immediate and obvious: the dry, brown hillsides of the Jammu side give way to green valley floor, often visible even from the tunnel's exit on a clear day.
A hill station roughly 100km from Jammu, with meadows and pine forests — a common overnight stop.
A 9.28km tunnel bypassing a difficult mountain stretch, reducing both distance and travel time.
A town on the Chenab River, roughly midway between Patnitop and Banihal.
A 2.85km tunnel through the Pir Panjal range, built 1954-1956, historically the main road entrance to Kashmir.
The final stretch runs through Qazigund and Anantnag, past apple orchards and, closer to Srinagar, fields associated with Kashmir's saffron cultivation — a striking sight when in bloom. By the time Dal Lake comes into view on the approach to Srinagar, the journey has covered not just distance but an almost complete change of climate, vegetation, and light — the kind of transition that's easy to take for granted from a plane, but impossible to ignore from the road.
Travel tip: NH44 can close due to heavy snowfall (roughly November to February) or landslides during the monsoon (roughly July to September), particularly around Ramban and Banihal. Checking road status before setting out, and allowing flexibility in your schedule, is worth building into any plan for this route.
The drive via NH44 covers roughly 245-270km and typically takes 6-8 hours, though this varies with traffic, weather, and road conditions. Recent tunnels have reduced both distance and travel time compared to the older route.
Patnitop is a hill station roughly 100km from Jammu, known for meadows, pine forests, and Himalayan views. Many itineraries include an overnight stop here to break up the journey before continuing toward the Kashmir Valley.
The Jawahar Tunnel (Banihal Tunnel) is a 2.85km tunnel through the Pir Panjal range, built between 1954-1956 and named after Jawaharlal Nehru. It was historically the main road entry point into the Kashmir Valley, providing year-round connectivity despite winter snow.
Also called the Patnitop Tunnel, this 9.28km tunnel on NH44 bypasses a difficult, landslide-prone stretch of highway, significantly reducing travel time and improving safety, particularly during the monsoon.
After the Jawahar Tunnel, the road descends through Qazigund and Anantnag, passing apple orchards and, closer to Srinagar, saffron fields. The final stretch offers views toward Dal Lake as the road enters Srinagar.
All 17 photographs were taken by Prashant Dhingra during a road trip along NH44 from Jammu to Kashmir. More India travel photography is at prashant.dhingra.website/travel/india, including a separate gallery covering Srinagar, Dal Lake, and Pahalgam.